Multigem setting



Apr-i122, 1947.

-a. TEssLER MULTIGEM SETTING Filed larch 6, 1946 INVENTOR Bursa/c1 Tess; 1?

ATTORNEYS Patented Apr. 22, 194-7 OFFICE ItjIULTIGEM SETTENG Benedict Tessler, Irvington, N. 5., assignor to Tessler & Weiss, Ina, Newark, N.- l, a corporation of New .1 ei'sey [application March .6, 1946, Serial No. 652,40?

12 Claims. (CI. 63-28) My invention relates generally to settings for gems, either precious, semi-precious, artificial or otherwise. In particular, my invention relates to a setting for a multiplicity of gems. In the following desoription of several illustrative embodiments of my invention, 1 will use the word gem in referring to precious or semi-precious stones or the like it is desired to mount and display.

- The settings of my invention may be used for finger rings, ear-rings, pins, brooches, or the like adornments, and I will describe same hereinbelow without specific relation to the manner or article in which the setting is used or worn. My invention is to be limited only by the scope of the appended claims.

The main object of my invention is to mount or secure a gem, or a plurality of gems, without resorting to conventional prong means for holdingsame.

Another object of my invention is the provision of a setting for a plurality of gems which comprises a pair of spaced plates above and below the gems, and means to hold said plates in spaced apart position.

Still another object of my invention is the provision of a 1nulti-gem setting comprising a pair of spaced plates disposed above and below the gems, and means forming part of one of plates to hold the plates in spaced relation, either alone or in combination with additional means, inclependent of the first named means to secure the plates in said relation.

Other and further objects of my invention will in part b specifically pointed out hereinbelow, and still others will be apparent. from the following descriptions of several illustrative embodi ments.

In the drawings annexed hereto, forming a part hereof,

. Figure l is a top plan view of one form of setting constructed according to and embodying my invention;

Figure 2 is a cross-sectional view on the line 22 of Figure 1; and v Figure 3 is a view, similar to Figure 2, of a modifled form of setting also constructed according. to'

and embodying my invention.

Most gems are conventionally out or otherwise formed so as to resemble roughly a pair of cones, base-to-base. Th upper cone is usually truncated, the flat portion being known as the table of the gem. The extreme tip end of the under cone may be flattened. somewhat to prevent chipping, and is designated conventionally as the culet or collet. The widest part of the gem,

ill

the common base between the top of the gem (bizet) and the bottom (pavilion) is known as the girdle, and is conventionally that part of the gem by which it is held, usually by prongs rising upwardly from the setting. In unpronged settings, notches or bearings are formed into which the girdle of the gem is rested, and then material from the setting is worked up over the girdle edge to hold same in place. However each gem is set or otherwise secured on a mount or setting, it requires individual handling necessitating skill and care, and is time consuming and expensive.

With the setting of my invention, I have largely eliminated th necessity for individual handling of each gem, and I have so simplified the assembly of the various parts that a relatively unskilled worker may effectively set or mount a large number of gems and have very substantially reduced the cost of setting gems per unit.

Referring now to the form of setting illustrated in Figures 1 and 2, my setting it? comprises a pair of flat plates l2 and I l, preferably of identical size and shape. Plates l2 and M may be made of any suitabl or desired metallic matetering'apertures 2t, 22 respectively. Depending on the relative widths of the upper and lower cones of the gems being handled, apertures All,

22 are made relatively larger or smaller, or of the same dimensions. As shown, gems 5t), 58 on the underside thereof taper to a culet point 52 at an angle much more acute to the girdle line 54 than the rise of the upper portion. Thus, apertures 21!, 22 in lower plate l2 are smaller than th registering apertures 22, '22 in upper plate i l. The openings 29, 22 may, however, be of any size or shape, except that they may not be larger than the diameter or longest dimension'of the gen-r1 girdles 5 3, 54.

in assembling the multi-gem setting of my invention, phiralitv of gems as 59, 5d are placed over and fitted into the openings 26, 2% in the lower plate it, so that the culet extends downwardly thereinto, with the sides of the pavilions 5t, 5t resting on and supported by the marginal edges of apertures 25, 22']. Upper plate I4 is then disposed atop plate is with openings 22 in alignment and registry with openings 20, permitting the upper portions of gems 56, 58 to project upwardly through the upper plate openings.

A bushing iii is provided having an outwardly shouldered extension lip 12 at the bottom thereof. The diameter of bushing 10 is slightly less than the diameter of central openings H5, i8 in plates i2, i i, so that the plates l2, M, with gems 56), 58 held therebetween, may be threaded down over the upper portion of bushing or hollow rivet If; and rested atop lip or shoulder l2. A suitable flaring tool (not shown) may be employed to spread bushing or hollow rivet Ill above plate Id, as indicated at M, Figure 2, in order to secure and lock piates 52, i at the center thereof. If desired an additional gem, as it, may be secured within bushing or rivet '52, its girdle and pavilion i8, 8% respectively resting on flared rivet portion "54, and held thereon by the material 82 at the top of the bushing being swedged, peened or otherwise worked over the top of the girdle i8.

Another equally satisfactory method of mounting the gems with the setting of my invention comprises resting plate i2 atop bushing or rivet extension l2, then placing gems d, 58 within apertures 22, 29, and finally locking same in position by overlaying plate is and flaring the top of bushing it.

In the modification of my invention illustrated in Figure 3, parts similar to those shown in Figures i and 2 are given similar identifying numerals. In this modification, I dispense with a separate hollow rivet (as it in Figures 1 and 2) and form lower plate 52 with an integral tubular extension 98 of such size as to pass through central aperture $2 in upper plate H3, or to permit plate i i to be threaded thereover. In use, gems as are disposed in apertures 29, 2o, plate I4 threaded over the upper portion of extension 99 down onto the gems, with openings 22, 22 in registry with openings til, 20 as to permit the upper portions of the gems to project into and through openin s 22, and then the upper part of extension to is flared outwardly to hold plate !4 against plate 52 in the slightly spaced-apart relationship shown in Figure 3, the gems being held between the plates by their girdle portions.

The outer marginal edges 62, i l of plates I2, is respectively, may be swedged together or soldared as indicated at N39 or otherwise secured in order to form a positive closure or securement between the gem-gripping plates at the outer margins thereof.

Having now described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1.. In combination, a plurality of gems and a setting therefor, the setting comprising a pair of flat plates, a plurality of registering apertures in said plates, the apertures in said plates being smaller than the girdles of the gems set therein, the gems being disposed and held between the plates with the lower portions of the gems projecting down into and through the apertures in one plate, and the upper portions of the gems projecting up into and through the apertures in the other plate, the gems being held between the plates, and means to secure the plates together. 2. Combination as in claim 1, in which the plates are secured together at the marginal edges thereof.

3. Combination as in claim 1, in which the openings in one plate are smaller than the openings in the other plate.

4. Combination as in claim 1, in which the plates are provided with registering apertures remote from the marginal edges thereof, and the plate securing means comprise a hollow rivet passing through said last-referred to registering apertures.

5. Combination as in claim 1, in which the plates are provided with registering apertures remote from the marginal edges thereof, and the plate securing means comprise a hollow rivet passing through said last-referred to registering apertures, the ends of said rivet being deformable to secure said plates therebetween.

6. Combination as in claim 1, in which the plates are provided with registering apertures remote from the marginal edges thereof, and the plate securing means comprise a hollow rivet passing through said last-referred to registering apertures, the ends of said rivet being deformable to secure said plates therebetween and to receive and hold a gem upwardly of the upper plate.

7. In combination, a plurality of gems and a setting therefor, the setting comprising a pair offlat plates, a plurality of registering apertures in said plates, the apertures in said platesbeing smaller than the girdles of the gems, the gems being disposed and held between the plates, upper portions of each of the gems projecting through the apertures in one of the plates, and lower portions of each of the gems projectin through the apertures in the other of the plates, and means remote from the marginal edges of the plates to secure same together with the gem girdles therebetween.

8. The combination of claim 7, in which the securing means are integral with one of the plates.

9. The combination of claim '7, and means at the marginal edges of the plates to secure same together with the gem girdles therebetween.

10. In combination, a plurality of gems each having a girdle portion wider than the remainder thereof, and a setting therefor comprising a pair of slightly spaced apart flat plates, a plurality of registering apertures in said plates, the apertures in said plates being smaller than the girdles of the gems, the gems being disposed and held between the plates, portions of each of the ems projecting through the apertures in one of the plates, portions of the gems at the opposite sides of each thereof projecting through the apertures in the other plate, the gem girdles being located between the spaced plates, the plates being secured at the marginal edges thereof, and at a point remote from the marginal edges.

11. The combination of claim 10, in which the plates are circular and the means securing the plates at a point remote from the marginal edges comprise a hollow gem receiving and holding rivet.

12. The combination of claim 10, in which the plates are circular and the means securing the plates at a point remote from the marginal edges comprise a hollow gem receiving and holding rivet, and said rivet is an integral part of one of the plates.

' BENEDICT TESSLER. 

